A venison sandwich with bacon, chestnut creme fraiche and lingonberry jam
The perfect slice for a wintery outdoor lunch – a slab of seeded bread decked out with chestnut-flavoured creme fraiche, sweet and sour fruity jam and strips of bacon and venison, seared, grilled and supremely savoury.
Makes 2
2 tsp juniper berries
2 tsp allspice
1 tsp pink peppercorns
½ tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp salt
400g venison loin
20g butter
A drop of rapeseed oil
4 rashers smoked streaky bacon
1 multi-seed loaf
For the lingonberry jam
250g lingonberries (or cranberries)
50g sugar
For the chestnut creme fraiche
50g chestnuts
300g creme fraiche
1 Preheat your oven to 160C/325F/gas mark 3. Blitz together the spices and salt, then rub it all over the venison loin. Heat the butter and rapeseed oil in an ovenproof pan. When the butter is bubbling, sear the meat on both sides, turning occasionally, until it is beautifully brown. Put the pan in the oven for 7 minutes, then take it out and wrap with foil for 15 minutes to rest.
2 Combine the lingonberries and sugar in another frying pan and cook them over a medium-low heat for 5‑7 minutes, then transfer them to a bowl.
3 Finally, in a separate bowl, blitz together the chestnuts and creme fraiche until they are smooth.
4 Preheat the grill to medium-high, then arrange the bacon beneath the grill. Slice the multi-seed loaf and lightly toast under the grill also. Once the bacon is crispy, take it out, then smear the chestnut creme fraiche on to one side of the toast.
5 Slice the venison thinly and place a few slices on top of the creme fraiche along with a couple of rashers of bacon, then spoon the lingonberry jam on top and enjoy.
Matthew Young, Brook Green Wild Food Market, wildfoodmarket.co.uk
Rye beer chips with chive skyr
Skyr is an Icelandic staple, a thick, rich, fresh cheese similar in consistency to Greek yoghurt. This recipe uses chives, but skyr can be flavoured with all sorts of things – horseradish, honey mustard, dill … Set aside a little skyr as a starter for your next batch – whisk a tablespoonful into the milk once it has cooled to room temperature. The cheese requires at least 12 hours to make. For extra flavour in the chips, add nutmeg, dried herbs or red pepper flakes to the bread batter before dehydrating in the oven.
Serves 4
1 litre skimmed milk
200g rye or other dense, robustly flavoured bread (such as pumpernickel or a tangy sourdough)
120ml India pale ale, plus more as needed
Finely chopped fresh chives, for garnishing
1 First make the skyr. In a nonstick saucepan, heat the milk over a low heat to 95C/200F and maintain this temperature for 10 minutes. It’s crucial to keep the temperature steady, if it fluctuates too much then the skyr will either scorch or not set properly. Stir the milk throughout this process to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside at room temperature. Let it cool to 39C/102F. It takes over an hour to heat the milk and almost 30 minutes for it to cool to room temperature.
2 Cover with a kitchen towel and let the milk stand at room temperature for 12-15 hours (or at most 24 hours), until it has thickened to the consistency of Greek yoghurt and the curds have separated from the whey.
3 At this point, you can either stir the whey into the skyr to thin it, or drain it through cheesecloth for a thicker consistency. Cover tightly and refrigerate until chilled. The skyr, either thinned with the whey or strained, will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week. The whey will keep for the same length of time in an airtight container – delicious in baked goods!
4 For the chips, preheat the oven to 110C/225F/gas mark ¼. Break the bread into chunks, then whizz in a food processor until finely crumbled. Transfer the crumbs to a saucepan, pour in the ale and bring to a gentle simmer over a medium-low heat. Cook for about 15 minutes, until the bread is soft and has completely absorbed the beer.
5 Return the bread mixture to the food processor and process until smooth. Turn the batter out on to a baking sheet and spread in an even layer 2cm thick. Bake for about 10 hours or until completely dry and crispy. Let it cool to room temperature, then break into chips.
6 Spoon the skyr into a bowl, sprinkle with chives and serve with the chips.
Gunnar Karl Gíslason and Jody Eddy, North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland (Ten Speed Press)
Cured herrings in beetroot and horseradish with potato salad
Pickled herring is an ancient Nordic stalwart and unbeatable as a rye-bread topper, or paired, as here, with an aromatic potato salad. The pickling process takes 48 hours and the herring must be marinated afterwards for at least 6 hours.
Serves 4
8-12 herring fillets
500g small waxy potatoes
1 red onion, thinly sliced
A bunch of chives, chopped
Salt and black pepper
For the pickling liquid
1 tbsp allspice berries
200ml distilled malt vinegar
250g caster sugar
3 bay leaves
150g onion, thinly sliced
375ml water
For the marinade
200g cold cooked beetroot (not in vinegar)
50g horseradish, freshly grated
150ml plain yoghurt
2 tbsp caster sugar
150ml creme fraiche
1 First, make the pickling liquid. Put the allspice berries on a hard surface and lightly crush with the bottom of a saucepan, so they break into several pieces (but not a powder, as this will cling to the fillets when added to the fish). Combine all the pickling liquid ingredients into a saucepan, add the water and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, then refrigerate for 5 hours, until chilled to about 5C/41F. Put the herring fillets in a closely fitting dish, then cover completely with the liquid. Cover the dish, return to the refrigerator and leave to cure for at least 48 hours.
2 To make the marinade, put all the ingredients except the creme fraiche into a blender, season and mix together. When completely smooth, stir in the creme fraiche by hand. The result will be a vibrant pink, sloppy puree.
3 Remove the herrings from the pickling liquid and pat dry with kitchen paper. Cover them with the beetroot marinade and return to the refrigerator for at least 6 hours before serving.
4 Boil the potatoes in their skins until just tender, but cooked through. Drain and rinse under cold running water until cool enough to handle. Peel, and slice thickly.
5 To serve, place a few potato slices on each plate, then add a few thin slices of raw red onion and season with salt and pepper. Remove the herring fillets from the marinade, scraping off some, but not all, of it with your fingers. Place 2 or 3 fillets on top of each pile of potatoes and sprinkle with a few chopped chives before serving.
Matthew Harris, The Bibendum Cookbook (Conran Octopus)
Gravadlax in dill
This is the quintessential Scandinavian showstopper. Buy your salmon from a good fishmonger and freeze it for a minimum of 24 hours. Defrost it safely in the fridge on the day you intend to cure it. Allow two days for the curing process.
Serves 4
1 side of salmon fillet (around 1.3-2kg with tail on)
1 bunch dill, finely chopped
50g salt
10 whole white peppercorns (coarsely crushed)
100g sugar
1 Lay the salmon skin-side down on a tray with high edges. In a bowl, combine the dill, salt, white pepper and sugar. Use your fingers to massage the mix together. This important trick enhances the final flavour.
2 Cover the salmon with the mixture so you no longer can see any pink. Leave in the fridge for at least 2 days. Cut into thin slices or sear the whole chunks.
Sadaf Malik, Fika, fikalondon.com
Beetroot and ginger soup
A smooth potage that is as vibrant in colour as it is in flavour, infused with a typically Scandinavian mix of spices and topped with sour cream and chives. An energising, yet comforting dish.
Serves 4
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 carrot, roughly chopped
1 celery stick, roughly chopped
1 tbsp oil
2 star anise
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp ground juniper berries
½ tsp finely grated nutmeg
½ tsp ground ginger
5cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated
450g cooked beetroot (not pickled), roughly chopped
800ml hot vegetable stock
1-2 tbsp lemon, basil, bay and juniper vinegar or cider vinegar
1-2 tbsp aquavit, or gin or vodka
A pinch of A Vogel’s Herbamare salt, or a pinch of sea salt and mixed herbs
A pinch of black pepper
4 tbsp sour cream, or creme fraiche or Greek yoghurt (optional)
Chives, chopped, to serve (optional)
1 Start by sweating the onion, carrot and celery in the oil in a large saucepan over a low heat until soft. Stir in the dried spices and half the fresh ginger. Continue stirring while cooking for a minute or so. Add the beetroot, stock, vinegar, aquavit, salt and black pepper, bring to a simmer and cook over a low‑medium heat for 15-20 minutes.
2 Blitz the soup with a handheld blender or in a heatproof glass blender until smooth. If you’re using an upright liquidiser, make sure that the lid is securely on.
3 Return the soup to the pan and check the seasoning, adding more salt, pepper and fresh ginger to taste. Heat through and serve in bowls, either just as it is or topped with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of chopped chives.
Signe Johansen, Scandilicious (Saltyard)
Kladdkaka: Swedish chocolate cake
Kladdkaka is a Swedish fave – a gooey, sticky, chocolatey affair best served generously with lots of whipped cream.
Serves 8-9
135g salted butter
55g cocoa powder
350g granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
110g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
3 eggs
2 tbsp icing sugar, for dusting
1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Line, grease and flour a deep-sided 18cm wide cake tin.
2 Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Remove from the heat and stir in the rest of the ingredients. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin and bake for 20-30 minutes – it should be set around the edges but still gooey in the middle.
3 Let the cake cool in its tin for 20 minutes or so, then run a blunt knife around the edge to loosen it. Turn it out on to a wire rack, dust with icing sugar and serve warm.
Izy Hossack, Top With Cinnamon (Hardie Grant)
Spice cookies
Pepperkaker make for the prettiest Christmas decorations, and they taste just as good as they look – a crunch of sugar, sweet spices and buttery golden syrup. Allow the dough to prove in the fridge overnight.
Makes 30–50, depending on your cookie cutters
150ml golden syrup
250ml soft brown sugar
2 tsp ground ginger
2 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground cloves
175g butter, softened
150ml double cream
½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
750g plain flour, plus more for dusting
1 Beat the syrup, brown sugar, spices and butter in a big bowl until soft and smooth. Add the cream and beat again. Sift together the bicarbonate of soda and flour, then mix it into the butter mixture. Flour a work surface and knead the dough well, then wrap in clingfilm and leave in the refrigerator overnight.
2 The next day, or when ready to bake, preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Roll out the dough really thinly on a floured work surface and cut out with whichever cookie cutters you fancy. Place on baking trays lined with baking parchment. Bake for about eight minutes, then leave to cool on the baking parchment on a wire rack.
Trine Hahnemann, Scandinavian Baking (Quadrille)
Chilled rice pudding with citrus syrup
Risalamande is a Danish Christmas treat, traditionally made with double cream and sugar and topped with cherry compote. This version is healthier, but every bit as creamy and delicious.
Serves 6
150g short-grain brown rice
250ml water
800ml almond milk or other milk
A pinch of salt
125g blanched almonds, chopped
For the syrup
250ml juice and zest from organic oranges or mandarins (about 2 large oranges)
½ tsp cardamom seeds
1 tbsp clear honey
1 In a heavy-based saucepan, bring the rice to the boil in the water for 2 minutes, stirring. Add the milk and bring back to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently, covered, for 25 minutes. Stir often to prevent burning. Add more milk if needed – it should be very creamy. Add salt to taste. Leave to cool completely, then stir in the chopped almonds.
2 Meanwhile, make the syrup. Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat immediately and simmer gently, uncovered, for about 20 minutes or until reduced by half. Taste and add more honey, if needed. Strain to remove the cardamom seeds.
3 Spoon the cold rice into serving glasses and add a spoonful of the citrus syrup. The rice can be stored in the fridge for 3–5 days; the syrup for up to a week.
David Frenkiel and Luise Vindahl, Green Kitchen Travels (Hardie Grant)
Cardamom buns
The spice that defines Scandi baking, cardamom is edible magic in these milky-sweet buns – excellent for a midwinter fika.
Makes 18
1 tbsp cardamom pods
300ml milk
50g fresh yeast
135g caster sugar
½ tsp salt
150g unsalted butter, softened
1 egg, plus 1 for brushing
660g–720g bread flour
For the filling
200g unsalted butter, softened
90g caster sugar
1 tbsp ground cinnamon
Golden syrup and water, for brushing
½ tbsp cardamom pods
45g caster sugar
1 For the dough: crush the cardamom pods finely in a mortar. Pour the milk into a saucepan, add the cardamom and heat until tepid: about 38C/100F.
2 Sprinkle the yeast into a bowl and dissolve it in the milk, sugar, salt, butter and 1 egg.
3 Add some flour, a little at a time, and mix to a silky and elastic dough. Cover with a tea towel and leave to prove for 45–60 minutes or until doubled in size.
5 Meanwhile, make the filling. Mix the butter, sugar and cinnamon to a smooth paste.
6 Divide the dough in half. Roll one portion into a rectangle around 1cm thick. Spread half the filling over the dough, then fold it in half, long edges together. Repeat with the remaining dough.
7 Cut the sheets into strips about 3.5cm wide. Then cut almost all the way along each of the strips (each one should now look like a pair of long trousers).
8 Twist the “trouser legs” in different directions and tie them in a knot. Make sure the ends are hidden underneath the knot. Place the buns on a baking sheet lined with greaseproof paper.
9 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Leave the buns to prove under a tea towel for about 40 minutes, until doubled in size. Brush with beaten egg and bake in the centre of the oven for about 10 minutes or until golden.
10 Brush the still-warm buns with syrup mixed with water and sprinkle with ground cardamom mixed with caster sugar.
Leila Lindholm, leilasgeneralstore.com
Lindström patties
Typically Swedish flavours – pickled beets, capers, horseradish and chives – make these burgers something special. Serve with pan‑fried potatoes and mangetout.
Serves 4-5
500g minced beef
1 tsp salt
¼ tsp ground white pepper
100ml water
2 egg yolks
3 tbsp finely chopped onion
3 tbsp finely chopped pickled gherkins
2 tbsp chopped capers
5 tbsp finely chopped pickled beetroots
Butter, for frying
Freshly grated horseradish and chopped chives, to serve
1 Combine the mince with the salt and pepper, then add the water, egg yolks and all the chopped ingredients. Immediately shape the mixture into small, circular patties.
2 Heat a frying pan, add a generous knob of butter and fry the patties in batches over medium heat. Turn them once, frying for a few minutes on each side, or until just cooked through.
3 Serve the patties straight away, drizzled with the cooking juices from the pan. Top with grated horseradish and some chopped chives, then serve.
Anna and Fanny Bergenström, Under the Walnut Tree (Hardie Grant)
- This piece was amended on 3 February 2015 to remove the reference to how long the spice cookie dough keeps for in the fridge.
